The Ultimate Guide to Thrifting Denim

(Image by Chandler Aitchison)

Thrifting denim isn’t just shopping — it’s a treasure hunt. From vintage designer brands to one-of-a-kind washes, every pair has a story. At Brag Vintage, we know that the best denim isn’t found online or on the rack of a fast-fashion store — it’s discovered in the racks of thrift stores, second-hand shops, and hidden corners of markets. Here’s how to make sure you find the perfect pair.

1. Know Your Denim History

Before you dive into the thrift racks, it helps to understand how denim evolved over the decades. Recognizing key features will help you instantly spot older, high-quality pieces.

Fabric Weight & Feel

• ’70s–’90s denim tends to be heavier, sturdier, and made from 100% cotton.

• Early 2000s onward introduces stretch denim and lighter blends.

• Vintage denim usually feels more rigid, but the wear makes it soft in a very specific, naturally broken-in way.

Stitching & Construction

• Single-stitch inseams, chain-stitch hems, and consistent parallel stitching often signal older construction methods.

• Look for reinforced stress points and strong seams — these indicate pre–fast fashion manufacturing.

Waist Rises & Fits

• ’80s and ’90s: High rise, straight or tapered leg, roomy through the hips.

• Early 2000s: Low rise and bootcut become more common.
  Identifying these silhouettes helps place a pair within an era.

Hardware & Small Details

• Vintage jeans often use:

  • Metal or copper rivets

  • Heavier, carved, or engraved buttons

  • Zippers from older manufacturers (YKK, Talon, Scovill, etc.)

• The more substantial and aged the hardware feels, the older the denim usually is.

Fades & Washes

• Natural fading patterns — whiskering, thigh fades, honeycombs behind the knees — usually mean authentic wear, not machine distressing.

• ’80s and ’90s stonewash has a distinct cloudy, marbled look that modern washes often try (and fail) to imitate.

Selvedge Edges

• If you roll up the cuff and see a clean, woven edge (often with a coloured stripe), that indicates traditional shuttle-loom construction.

• Selvedge isn't always vintage, but older selvedge pairs tend to be heavier and higher quality.

Tags & Labels

• Older denim generally has:

  • More detailed care tags

  • “Made in USA,” “Made in Japan,” or older country-of-origin markers

  • Faded or partially worn labels

• Tag materials and fonts can help you estimate the age even without a brand.

Overall Wear

• Look for natural softening at the knees, seat, and pockets.

• Vintage denim breaks in with a unique, uneven softness — modern denim rarely replicates this authentically.

2. Inspect Every Pair

Once you know what makes older denim unique, the next step is learning how to examine each pair up close. A careful inspection can be the difference between finding a long-lasting treasure and taking home a pair that falls apart after one wash.

Stitching & Seams

• Look for consistency: Even, tight stitching is a sign of quality. Uneven or loose threads may mean rushed, lower-quality construction.

• Check stress points: Pay close attention to the crotch, belt loops, pocket corners, and the seat — these areas tell you most about how durable the jeans still are.

• Chain-stitch hems: If you find chain-stitching, especially on older pieces, it’s usually a sign of stronger construction and better longevity.

Wear & Tear

• Natural fading: Subtle wear on the thighs, pockets, and knees adds character and usually indicates real, long-term use. This kind of fading is valued in vintage denim.

• Frays vs. damage: Light fraying on hems or pockets is normal and often desirable, but look closely for thin spots — especially in the inner thighs — that may soon rip.

• Check inside and out: Flip the jeans inside out to see if there are hidden weak points, patches, or thinning fabric that isn't obvious from the outside.

Waist, Rise & Fit

• Vintage sizing varies: A pair labeled “28” from the ’80s might fit closer to a modern 26 or 27. Always rely on actual measurements, not the number on the tag.

• Measure the rise: Older jeans often have higher rises, and this dramatically affects how they fit your body. Check front rise, back rise, and hip width if you want the most accurate fit.

• Try the “flat measure” method: Lay the jeans flat and measure the waist, inseam, hips, and rise. These measurements tell you more than the tag ever will.

Fabric Feel & Weight

• Give the denim a slight tug in different areas. Vintage denim, especially cotton-heavy blends, should feel sturdy but not brittle.

• If the fabric feels too thin or fragile — particularly in the seat or crotch — it may not hold up to regular wear.

Hardware & Fastenings

• Test all zippers and buttons. Make sure the zipper moves smoothly and the button is stable.

• Loose hardware can be repaired, but broken or missing pieces often signal that the jeans have seen their last days.

Odor & Condition

• Older denim sometimes holds smells from storage or age. A mild musty scent can usually be washed out, but strong chemical or mildew odors are red flags.

• Check for stains that may not come out, like oil spots or bleach marks.

3. Be Open to Fits and Styles

One of the best parts of thrifting denim is the freedom to experiment. Unlike shopping new, where trends dictate what’s available, thrift stores give you access to decades of silhouettes — each with its own personality and charm. Staying open-minded can lead you to unexpected gems you would never have found if you only looked for one “ideal” fit.

Try Different Silhouettes

• Straight leg: A timeless classic that works with almost any outfit. Vintage straight cuts tend to have more structure and flatter a wide range of body types.

• Baggy or relaxed: These roomy styles were huge in the ’90s and early 2000s. They offer comfort, a laid-back vibe, and can be incredibly stylish when balanced with fitted tops.

• Tapered or slim: Older slim silhouettes aren’t skin-tight like modern skinny jeans, making them comfortable while still giving definition through the leg.

• Cropped or ankle-length: Whether naturally cropped or hemmed by a previous owner, these pairs add character and pair beautifully with boots and sneakers.

Play With Different Rises

• High-rise: Common in older denim, this shape creates a defined waist and retro look — great for tucking tops.

• Mid-rise: Comfortable and versatile, often found in ’90s and early 2000s jeans.

• Low-rise: Making a comeback, these early 2000s silhouettes can be surprisingly flattering when they fit well through the hip.

Trying rises you don’t usually wear can help you discover what truly works with your proportions.

Explore Fits Beyond Your Usual “Size”

Vintage sizing is unpredictable, and some of the best jeans are the ones that look “too big” or “too small” on the hanger.

• A pair that looks oversized can have the perfect slouchy, borrowed feel.

• A pair that seems smaller might stretch or sit higher on the waist in a flattering way.

Don’t be afraid to take multiple sizes into the fitting room — or test them by holding them up or measuring against your body.

Embrace Unique Details

Older denim includes features you rarely see today:

• Unusual pocket shapes

• Unique stitching patterns

• Different belt loop placements

• Interesting wash variations

These quirks make thrifted denim feel one-of-a-kind and add personality to your wardrobe.

Let the Unexpected Surprise You

Some of the best-fitting jeans come from pairs you almost didn’t try: a strange silhouette, a wash you weren’t sure about, or a pair outside your comfort zone. Vintage denim behaves differently on the body — it molds, softens, and adapts in ways modern stretchy blends don’t.

Staying open allows you to discover styles that make you feel confident, comfortable, and uniquely you.

4. Don’t Ignore Jackets and Accessories

Denim treasure hunting doesn’t stop at jeans — some of the best and most unique pieces in a thrift store are the ones hanging on the outerwear rack or tucked into the accessories section. Vintage denim jackets, vests, and even bags often have better construction and more character than modern versions, making them incredible long-term wardrobe staples.

Explore Different Jacket Styles

• Classic trucker jackets: These timeless cuts pair effortlessly with dresses, trousers, or denim-on-denim looks. Older versions usually feature heavier fabric, distinctive stitching, and structured shapes that modern fast-fashion pieces rarely match.

• Chore jackets: With their roomy pockets and utilitarian feel, chore coats bring a workwear edge to any outfit. Look for mid-blue or faded indigo washes that show natural wear — a sign of genuine aging and quality.

• Overshirts and shackets: Lightweight denim overshirts or denim-blend shackets are perfect layering staples. They’re easy to style year-round and often come in softer, well-worn fabrics that drape beautifully.

Look for Authentic Hardware & Details

• Check the buttons, rivets, and snaps — older pieces tend to use metal hardware that’s heavier and more durable.

• Examine the stitching patterns, especially across shoulders and pockets. Vintage jackets often feature unique stitching that hints at their era.

• Feel the fabric weight: vintage denim jackets are usually thicker and more structured, making them ideal for layering and long-term wear.

Don’t Overlook Selvedge or Specialty Denim

• Selvedge denim jackets are rare in the wild, but worth grabbing when you find them. The clean woven edges and denser fabric signal exceptional quality.

• Japanese denim in jackets or vests is another incredible find — known for its craftsmanship, deep indigo dyes, and rich fades over time.

Check the Vest & Waistcoat Section

Denim vests are incredibly versatile:

• Layer over tees, dresses, hoodies, or sweaters

• Add texture to simple outfits

• Bring a retro or Western-inspired touch

A cropped or boxy vintage vest can instantly elevate a look.

Explore Bags, Hats & Small Accessories

Vintage denim often shows up in unexpected places:

• Bucket hats, caps, and visors made from heavy denim can add a fun, nostalgic look.

• Denim tote bags or backpacks from older eras are far sturdier than their modern counterparts.

• Belts, aprons, and patchwork items can add personality to your wardrobe and are usually made from leftover denim scraps — a sustainable and stylish win.

Why These Pieces Matter

Denim jackets and accessories often age even better than jeans. They hold their colour, show beautiful patina over time, and pair effortlessly with nearly anything in your closet. Plus, they’re usually overlooked at thrift stores — meaning you can score incredible vintage pieces for a fraction of their original value.

5. Clean It, Wear It, Rock It

You’ve hunted, inspected, and tried on your perfect piece — now it’s time to bring your thrifted denim back to life and make it your own. Vintage denim deserves a bit of extra care, but the payoff is huge: better aging, richer fades, and a look that feels timeless and uniquely you.

Clean With Care

Vintage denim often responds differently to washing than modern blends, so treat it gently:

• Avoid hot water: Heat can shrink cotton-heavy denim and distort its shape. Instead, use cold water to preserve the fabric’s structure.

• Gentle detergents are best: Look for mild or denim-specific formulas to prevent fading. Harsh detergents strip color and dry out older fibers.

• Spot clean when possible: For small stains or marks, target just the area with a soft cloth and diluted detergent. This helps preserve the original wash and character.

• Air dry always: Heat from dryers can weaken old stitching and make denim stiff or brittle. Lay flat or hang to dry to maintain shape.

Break It In Naturally

Vintage denim evolves beautifully with regular wear:

• As you move, the fabric molds to your body, creating personalised whiskers, honeycombs, and soft fading in all the right places.

• Don’t over-wash — denim actually lasts longer and develops richer texture when it’s washed sparingly.

• If the piece feels stiff at first, give it a few wears. Vintage fabric softens quickly and becomes more comfortable with time.

Style It Your Way

Thrifted denim is one of the most versatile pieces you can own:

• Dress it up with a crisp button-down, heeled boots, or a structured blazer.

• Dress it down with an oversized tee, sneakers, or a cozy hoodie.

• Layer it with oversized knits, leather jackets, or denim-on-denim for a bold vintage look.

• If it’s a jacket, vest, or overshirt, try it over dresses, athleisure, or tailored trousers.

The beauty of vintage denim is that it doesn’t follow today’s trends — it creates its own.

Make It Uniquely Yours

A thrifted piece already has history, but you can add your own touch:

• Roll or cuff the hems

• Add patches or embroidery

• Crop or tailor it for a modern twist

• Pair it with unexpected textures like silk, linen, or chunky knits

Vintage denim becomes a canvas for your personal style — something no mass-produced pair can compete with.

Enjoy What Makes It Special

Each thrifted denim piece carries:

• A unique wash

• Subtle wear patterns

• Character that can’t be replicated

• A more sustainable story

When you style and wear vintage denim confidently, you’re not just wearing jeans — you’re wearing craftsmanship, history, and individuality.

6. Patience Pays Off

Finding incredible vintage denim isn’t about luck — it’s about patience, persistence, and a willingness to enjoy the hunt. The best pieces rarely show up on your first visit, and that’s part of what makes thrifting so rewarding. Every great find has a story behind it, and the search is half the fun.

Visit Often & Stay Consistent

Thrift stores rotate inventory constantly. What’s not there today might be on the rack tomorrow.

• Go on different days and times: New stock is often put out in the mornings or after sorting sessions.

• Don’t skip smaller shops: Sometimes the best vintage pieces end up in unexpected, low-traffic places.

• Check every section: Denim doesn’t always land where it “should.” Some of the best finds hide in the men’s, kids’, or jacket aisles.

Consistency pays off — the more often you visit, the more likely you are to score something truly special.

Be Willing to Dig

The magic of thrifting is hidden beneath the surface: in the middle of the rack, behind a random pile, or sandwiched between dozens of modern pieces.

• Flip through hangers one by one.

• Don’t rush — give yourself time to look.

• Check bottom racks, end caps, and even fitting room returns.
  The extra effort increases your chances of spotting rare denim, unique washes, or perfectly worn-in silhouettes.

Don’t Settle for “Almost”

If a pair doesn’t feel right, it’s okay to walk away. Vintage denim lasts for decades — so choose pieces you truly love, not just ones that fit “well enough.”
Being patient ensures your collection grows intentionally, with pieces you’ll actually wear for years.

Understand the Thrill of the Hunt

When you finally find that dream pair — the perfect wash, the perfect fit, the perfect era — it feels like discovering treasure.

• You didn’t just buy something.

• You found something.

• And now it’s part of your story.

That emotional connection is what makes vintage denim so powerful.

Every Great Find Has a Journey

The pair you bring home has already lived a life: worn-in fades from another era, softening from years of movement, and details that can’t be recreated. By being patient, you’re allowing the right piece to find you — the one that fits your style, your body, and your story.

The Brag Vintage Take:

Thrifting denim is an adventure — a way to find authentic, worn-in pieces with personality. Vintage jeans are more than fashion; they’re history, durability, and individuality all rolled into one. Next time you hit the thrift store, remember: patience, attention to detail, and a love for denim might just help you find that perfect piece.