The History Of Carhartt

The History of Carhartt featuring a carhartt poster on the wall in a vintage store
(Image by Kiko Camaclang)

Founding & Inception

In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt & Co. was established by its founder, Hamilton Carhartt. Starting with just two sewing machines in a small attic in Detroit, the early days were far from smooth. The initial overalls weren’t up to standard, so Hamilton took a hands-on approach — speaking directly with local railway workers to understand the needs of the working man.

From this, the first overall bib was created — a design that would continue to evolve into the iconic workwear piece we recognise today.

By 1910, just twenty years later, Carhartt had grown rapidly, operating six factories and mills across the United States, along with additional facilities in Ontario, Toronto, Vancouver, and Liverpool. The company expanded further with factories in Paris and offices in New York. This growth positioned Carhartt as a key supplier of military uniforms during both World War I and World War II.

However, the 1929 Wall Street Crash brought severe challenges. With industries grinding to a halt and unemployment rising, demand for workwear collapsed. Carhartt, like much of America, struggled to survive.


Recovery

Hamilton Carhartt passed away in 1937 before seeing the company recover. His son, Wylie Carhartt, took over and rebuilt the business, establishing new cotton mills and sewing factories in Kentucky — many of which are still in operation today.

Under Wylie’s leadership, Carhartt regained strength, securing contracts with major industrial firms. In 1959, leadership passed to his son-in-law, Robert Valade, who modernised the company by investing in advanced manufacturing equipment and experienced design teams.

A defining moment came in 1975 with the release of the hooded Active Jacket, which remains one of Carhartt’s best-selling items. That same year, workers constructing the Alaska pipeline wore Carhartt gear, showcasing its durability in some of the harshest conditions on earth.


Streetwear

The 1980s marked a turning point, as Carhartt began to emerge beyond workwear and into streetwear culture. Youth in Detroit and the Bronx adopted the brand for its durability and authentic aesthetic. By the 1990s, the iconic yellow “C” logo had spread to the West Coast.

Carhartt became deeply embedded in hip-hop culture, worn by artists such as Wu-Tang Clan, Tupac, and Dr. Dre. Unlike many brands, it never faded from relevance — later being embraced by artists like Eminem, Jay-Z, Kanye West, and more recently Action Bronson and A$AP Rocky.

Recognising this shift, Carhartt launched Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP) in 1989. Designed primarily for European and Asian markets, WIP focused on refined, fashion-forward silhouettes while maintaining the brand’s signature durability. Compared to the looser American workwear cuts, WIP introduced slimmer, more contemporary fits.

The line quickly gained traction within the skateboarding community during the 1990s — a connection that remains strong today. Its appeal came not only from its ties to hip-hop but also from its rugged construction, making it ideal for the demands of skateboarding.

Carhartt has continued to support this culture, contributing to skateparks and producing skate-focused media such as Dirt Ollies, a documentary exploring skateboarding in Mongolia.


Today

Today, Carhartt is a brand that transcends its workwear roots. It is worn across a wide range of subcultures — from skaters and BMX riders to hip-hop artists, graffiti writers, creatives, and everyday wearers.

The iconic “C” logo now represents more than just workwear — it stands for durability, authenticity, and a lasting connection to craftsmanship and culture.

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